Vignemale, Ordesa, Breche de Roland

Some holiday time with the family before Ruby goes to University and Susie, Jasper and I move to France. After a brief stay at Quélébu it was off to Bidart just south of Biarritz. A lovely campsite "Pavillion Royale" gave us a few days of hot weather, big waves and sandy beaches - perfect relaxation after days of packing.

Then it was off in the car to Cauterets and the start of a 4 day circuit through two national parks. We started a little after 2.00 so caught the télésiege from the Pont d'Espagne up towards the Lac de Gaube to save some time - a first chair lift ride for Susie and the kids.

In a few hours we reached the massive north face of Vignemale beneath which we planned to bivouac. It wasn't long before the clouds rolled and a there were a couple of rolls of thunder, contrary to the forecast! We managed to scramble into our bivvy bags just as the rain started - there were slightly worried faces all round.

Fortunately it was only a shower. We found an abandoned flysheet and rigged a tarp to protect our heads should the rain return, but in the end it was a starry night.

Next morning started with the climb to the col des Mulats before the long, hot, descent down the Ara Valley to Barajuelo.

At the col

Looking back towards Pic d'Arataille

The weather was blistering hot and it took 8 hours before we could dip our feet in the Rio Ara at Barajuelo. We got a taxi from there to the village of Torla where we had booked room in the Refugio Lucien. A meal and the first mattress for a 5 days were very welcome.

Next morning we caught the shuttle up into the Ordesa Canyon and decided that after such a long day in the Ara and with heavy packs, we'd skip the Faja de Pelay path which traverses the canyon at mid-height with spectacular views, in favour of the easier path on the canyon bottom. It was a shame but probably the right decision. We were all glad to get out of the trees and eventually reach the upper canyon where the spectacular scenery is more apparent.

After lunch at the head of the canyons we climbed upwards to the Refugio Goriz, where we had a room for the night. The hut was (as always) packed with walkers heading for Monte Perdido. A great meal which alas wasn't matched by the sleep obtained in the hot, stuffy, noisy dormitory. I think bivvying would have been better!

The last stage between Goriz and Garvarnie is a classic crossing of the Breche de Roland. At first the path heads across a crazy barren landscape, until finally heading across more difficult terrain to the the breche. 

Jasper practising his jedi skills

So late in the season there was no snow on the approach to the breche and snow slopes were replaced with unstable scree and rocks - difficult terrain for inexperienced legs. Finally there was the Eychelle des Isards to cross, a 30m section with a chain handrail. I ferried the rucksacks across and accompanied each family member in turn. Jasper was very nervous as he sometimes suffers from vertigo but with determination he made it across.

Tired legs made their way down from the Breche to the Sarradets hut, closed for major enlargement works which filled the valley with noise.

Ruby was beginning to suffer from the heat, so I shouldered her pack for the last couple of hours beneath Taillon to the Col de Buchero, then the parking at the Col des Tentes. I hitched and taxied my way back to Cauterets in about 1 hour 20 where I'd left the car. Then drove back to collect everyone from the col where they watched the sun go down in there bivvy bags.

A duck dinner in Luz St Saviour then the long drive home, where we arrived in the early hours.

No posts for a couple of weeks as we've been busy, busy, busy - packing, selling and generally organising our departure from the UK.   This old sheep trailer which I bought on ebay has also been occupying my time as it needed complete rebuilding. It now has new axles, brakes and coupling, so should get our stuff down to France safely.

Back on Monday for some trekking with Susie, Jasper and Ruby in the Ordesa canyons, then a final return to the UK to take Ruby to University before we leave for good!!

Pointe de Rabasere

There's been a lot of field and potager clearing going on over the past few days and some new fruit bushes planted. The chicken house is being redeployed closer to the house with a new run an earlier priority on out return. 

The weather remains hot and sunny.

On Saturday we set off on a walk to Pointe de Rabasere (2568m) from Gerac above Guzet. After descending the ladders and crossing the outflow from the first lake, we followed the path which climbs and then crosses the ridge above the lake, before descending towards the Etang de la Hillette.

The first path of the descending path is narrow and exposed

Above the Etang de la Hillette

After losing a lot of height we eventually joined the path leading to the Port de Couillac and the Spanish frontier for lunch.

 One of several small lakes before the Port

There are lovely views from the Port into Spain and towards the mountains around Pica d'Estats and Certescan. We watched a short-toed eagle (snake eagle) soaring and hovering over hillsides.

View from the summit

A short steep climb put us on the tiny summit of Pointe de Rabassere. From here we had to head north to small col from where one can pick up a path heading to the Etand de Reglisse. Susie didn't fancy the ecposed ridge so we descended and then traversed but ended up a little too low and had to reclimb the ridge a little - annoying on a hot afternoon in pathless terrain! Some care was needed to follow the cairns and old red markers on the descent but eventually we were down and soaking our feet in the lake.

Etand de Reglisse

From here a good path back to Gerac. 1350m of ascent.

Coth des Arenesi

After some initial running around to sort out some unexpected discoveries on Jean-Christophe Chadafeau's new house which is now underway (or at least the demolition of the old one is) Susie and I decided to get out into the mountains.

After some very hot weather Monday was cloudy, but Meteo France promised good weather Tuesday so we set off at 6.30am for Artiga de Lin just over the border in Spain towards the Val d'Aran. It was raining with heavy low clouds the whole way and we were beginning to doubt the weather, but once in Spain things looked a little brighter and the rain stopped. Last time I was here was maybe 15 years ago. Then you could drive to the end of the road (only on that occasion the road was blocked by a huge avalanche, the scars of which are still evident). Now you must park some miles from the end of the road at (1220m) and walk the rest of the way steeply uphill - an unexpected additional to our planned walk. From the end of the road we climbed up towards the cloud heading for the Coll de Toro (2235m) passing through a meadow full of thistles, many bright blue and marmots.

The valley appears to be walled in on all sides but somehow a path finds a way through the steep walls, protected by cables. As we climbed higher we slowly emerged above the clouds and into the sun.

Susie bottom right

Eventually we arrived at the col and the Lac deth Coth deth Horo with superb views towards the Maladetta glacier and peaks (though Aneto is hidden behind the Tuca de Aiguallut from here).

I short descent took us to the beautiful valley that wraps around the Eastern side of the Maladetta between the striking forked peak of Forcanada (2885m) and the Alpine wilderness North of Tuc de Molieres (3010m) and Pico Margalida (3244m).

We wound our way slowly upwards past small tarns until a gentle climb along a fault line took us to the Col called Coth des Aranesi (2445m).

Forcanada ahead with the Coth des Arensesi in the foreground.

Tired? No!

The shrinking Maladetta glacier (tiny people visible bottom right amongst the boulders)

Marmot posing at the col, Forcanada behind

The start of the descent

The descent from the col back to Artiga de Lin was steep with a poor slippery path, first down scree then down through overgrown moraines, it seemed never ending and we were glad to finally reach the grassy meadow above the Artiga de Lin though the long walk along the road still remained before we reached our car.

The lake of the Estanhon des Pois where we soaked our feet and watched the fish jump

Looking back at the first part of the descent

After the lake still a long way down to the meadow

Looking back at the ascent of the Col de Toro

Back in France

Photos from last weeks flying visit

It was super hot last week (40 in the shade one day and off the thermometer in the sun). This photo above was at 8.00 in the evening. Still the warmth is at last drying out the chaux chanvre though I'm still a bit concerned that the St Astier chaux appears to be drying to a grey rather than white....we shall see.

The shower tray is installed and shower enclosure built...

...as is the chimney, through the wall, floor and up to ceiling level.

A squirrel in Dartington Gardens

Who's at the door?

A brief return to France to meet with Rupert on his annual visit to the Ariege. Very hot (39 in the sun) with clear skies here. A new window for the front door (a reclaimed porthole) and hopefully time to finish the plasterboard and stud work in the shower and under the stairs before I leave on Wednesday.

Timelapse of a small evening storm arriving at Quélébu

Port de Barlonguere

A day in the mountains for first time in 8 months. Surprisingly, I just noticed this is the same walk I did just over 2 years ago (17th July 2014) see here. Much less snow this year and I'm 30 mins slower, but that's not surprising given my inactivity in the mountains over the last few years!

It was blisteringly hot this morning and my dreams of storming up from the valley were quickly downgraded to a steady plod. Just like two years ago my plan had been to climb Pic les Trois Comtes and again I was too knackered. It's a steep haul to the Port de Barlonguere from Pla de Lau and in full sun most of the way. Crossing the river required taking socks and shoes off but this time it was only knee deep.

As I approached the Cabane de Barlonguere there were about 25 isards and I was able to get some great photos and videos. there were even a couple of young.

On leaving the cabane I met two young Frenchmen who had had an accident on the névés above the Etang Long. They were ill-equipped and inexperienced and without sticks or an ice-axe had found it very difficult climbing up to the Port de Barlonguere (perhaps 30 degrees). One of them had slipped and managed to drop his rucksack, which had slipped down the snow and was apparently irretreviable(?) He looked pretty shook up and was evidently too frightened to re-descend to get his bag (though when I met them back at Pla de Lau at the end of the day he said it had fallen under the snow and got wedged?). They said the névé had taken them completely by surprise and was extremely dangerous - they feared a fall would see them in the Etang Long! They asked me if they could call out the mountain rescue to get the bag!!

The reality was just the normal snow slope that persists here in June and July, though I seem to remember being surprised last time by people who were ill equipped for snow, trying to climb it and inviting an accident!

I searched everywhere but was unable to find the rucksack ( I had thought to collect it and carry it down to the Maison de Valier for collection).

 Looking down the névés from the Port de Barlonguere towards the Etang Long

The water in the Etang Long and the lower Etang Rond was deep, cold and beautifully blue. Between 2 and 3 the a few clouds rolled in and cooled the temperatures but not for long.

 Etang Long

 Etang Rond

By the time I reached the Cascade de Nerech it was sweltering again. I was surprised that other than the two frenchman the only other people I saw all day were climbing up to Estagnous Refuge very late in the day (or making very slow progress!).

By the time I got to St Girons it was crazy hot and humid but shortly after a big thunderdtorm rolled in and lasted most the evening.