Carros de Foc - day 1

Jasper and Ruby arrived from the UK on Thursday for our trekking holiday the following week. We had arranged house/pet sitters in advance (Jan and Pauline from New Zealand) and they arrived yesterday so we could brief them on how to look after the sheep, cats, chicken and vegetable garden. The weather forecast for the holiday has looked pretty awful all week and last night it tipped down! We set off at 9.00 bound for Espitau de Viehla, an abandoned hostel (following a fire in the 1980's) beside the southern entrance to the Vielha tunnel. There's space to park here and its the starting point for the climb up to the Estany Tort de Ruis and thence onward to the Refugi de Restanca where we would start the "Carros de Foc" (Chariot of fire) a nine hut circuit in the Aigues-Tortes national park, which we hoped to complete in 5 days.

The rain stayed away and the weather improved throughout the day. It was 23 years since I was walking here last, though much of the way I can still recall well. Are packs were lighter than on previous treks as this year we had opted to stay in refuges and pay for evening meal and breakfast.

Ruby found the going tough, despite our nagging she hasn't done much exercise this year, but she soldiered on and made it through the day.

After lunch at the Estany we made a long descent towards the hut before a steep uphill to the hut which was reached across a dam. Last time I was here I slept in the ruins of the old hut (now demolished). 

The hut was busy, but the meal was good and filling. A large french group from Pays Basque decided to sing through the evening at full volume (when everybody else was trying to sleep) and were quite inconsiderate when they finally decided to come to bed waking everybody up. 

Skies and butterflies

Approaching thunderstorm

Swallowtail butterfly

Hummingbird hawk moth (freeze frame)

Preying mantis in the polytunnel

Cagateille circuit plus Cabane de Lacarde

Scarce Swallowtail butterfly

We'd intended doing a long walk today perhaps to Pic Montabone but a soirée at Philippe and Sophie's meant we weren't in bed until the early hours and so we were late getting up! We headed upto the Cirque de Cagateille anyway and decided to do the Etang Alet / Hillette circuit but in the anticlockwise direction and to visit the cabane Lacarde (which I've never been to but is used in winter when making the ski ascent of Pic Montabone).

The circuit seemed tougher in this direction (or maybe it was the heat). Overhead we saw a couple of pairs of Lammergeier Vultures (I'm sure these are on the increase as we see them almost every trip), as well as plenty of griffon vultures and a couple of marmots.

At the little lake behind the cabane Lacarde we ate lunch and cooled off.

Cabane Lacarde

The descent to the Etang Alet to join the regular circuit

Etang Alet

Etang Hillette

Susie took a dip in the Etang Hillette which was surprisingly warm, then it was down, down, down. 7 hours for the trip and we saw remarkably few people, no-one until we were nearly at the Etang Hillette.

Susie on the short scramble below the Etang Hillette

Pic Seron(8) West Ridge

Susie and I had planned to climb one of the Couserans bigger peaks (Maubermé or Mon Rouch) but Susie ripped some skin on her foot yesterday so we opted for something more modest. I've climbed peak Seron seven times before but never by the West ridge, a route that looks very direct and interesting from Gerac.

We continued on the main track after the path for the ladders and eventually broke left to climb the lower ridge. As the ridge narrows a cairned path became evident.

Gerac below

A crazy cut-out in the felsenmeer - isard?

The South ridge is composed of huge granite slabs

The path alternates through patches of tumbles slabs which have to climbed through but the granite is covered in huge phenocrysts, which have weathered to form handy "chicken-head" holds for climbing them. 

We spotted some alpine accentors on the way up

We reached the summit (2489m) after about two and a quarter hours and after lunch decided to descend via the Etang d'Aube - Susie fancied a dip (but alas the water was too cold even for her).

The familiar profile of Mont Valier and its satellites from the summit

The Etang d'Aube, dominated by the Dent de Médé

There were quite a few people camping and bathing at the Etang de Médé. After crossing the Col de Cerda we quickly back at the car - about 5 hours plus lunch for the circuit. A quick beer and chips at the ski chalet/restaurant on the Col d'Escots was a lovely treat.

Back home Susie's flowers are in full bloom and I've been making sandwich pickle with the glut of squashes.

Colourful pickle mix ready for cooking

Devils fingers

Clanthrus archeri or "devils fingers"

Now the hornets nest is safely removed I've been able to finish scything the top terrace of the field opposite Phillipe and Celine's which was very overgrown. Like most the meadows at the moment there are quite a few devils fingers emerging - alas not edible!

Plenty of mushrooms that are though. Last night we filled the basket with chanterelles, hedgehog of the woods and horn of plenty...and then went back for seconds finding a delicious little juicy beefsteak fungus. We decided to preserve our haul and after briefly cooking them in white wine, vinegar and herbs, which shrunk them considerably and has hopefully enhanced their flavour, we packed them in a jar with olive oil.

The recent damp overcast weather seems to be retarding the ripening of our tomatoes, and has killed our melon, though we got three delicious fruit from it. Raspberries are coming on stream soon and there are a lot of aubergines starting to form.

Soubirou

A hastily arranged morning walk with Sheri and Michiel to Pic de Soubirou. Lovely views as always and some wildlife - a snake eagle, kestrels, vultures and a slow worm. Despite some wind, it was very hot and humid which made for a sweaty ascent!

 Merens below Soubirou