Woodshed

A beautiful sunny clear day yesterday revealing snow on the mountains. Spent all day at Justin and Emily's helping them with carpentry on the barn they are building.

Today I spent the day moving a years worth of firewood out of the woodshed so that I could get access to cast some concrete pads on which to put new timber columns (replacing the existing rotten ones). Cast five pads bringing the total to eleven - two more to do.

My planning application to rebuild/enlarge the woodshed was refused on the basis that rebuilding the existing woodshed exactly the same as it is currently, would be out of keeping with the existing buildings? Very strange.

Anyhow, I will now have to repair the existing woodshed instead - which amounts to the same thing.

Leia is back with the flock and seems to be happier, apart from being lame (a symptom of blue tongue) she's back to normal.

Can't go too long without mixing concrete

Put six of the thirteeen foundation pads for the new garage/woodstore in today (ran out of ballast after six). Snow on the mountains and a great play of sun and clouds in the afternoon.

Leia update

Leia seems much better today. Still obviously ill with some ulcers around her nose and her mouth, but much brighter and with all the swelling now receeded. Current advice on isolation is 60 days - but this appears to be based on a single research paper which managed to retrieve virus from an infected animals tissue 54 days after infection (Takamatsu), no-one else has managed to retrieve virus more than 7 days after infection. So given the cold weather (snow above 2100m last night) and Leia's stress at being removed from the flock I might consider repatriating her after 7 days. Will take her to the vets early next week for a blood test to confirm the virus strain.

Update

The explosives were finally taken away today from Pont de la Taule and hopefully I should soon have a revised quote for installing a sceptic tank. Meantime I've started knocking doorway number two through one of the half metre thick walls. Although, getting through was not too difficult, the lower couple of feet is a solid outcrop of marble and the rest is composed of enormous blocks, so it's very difficult to get a plumb door jamb without de-stabilising the whole wall. May have to call in some help. More trips to the dump - amazing how even an 'empty' house can contain so much junk.

Leia is a bit brighter today, but might take her to the vet tomorrow for an obligatory blood test and another anti-inflammatory injection. Weather has turned and is cold and windy...no mosquitos wondering whether to put Leia back with the other sheep for a few days as she is quite stressed away from the herd and spends all day with her nose pressed to the fence hoarsely trying to bleat to her half-sisters, who respond.

Blue tongue (FCO)

Yesterday, Leia was off her food, so I've been keeping an eye on her - this morning it was clear she'd contracted blue tongue...very swollen face, trembling (fever) and blue lips/nose. Although all the sheep were vaccinated on the 2nd September, it doesn't begin to offer much protection until the third injection (3 weeks after the first two) and even then full protection takes some weeks to accrue. So just bad luck I guess. I separated her from the other sheep and after a trip to the vet she's on antibiotics and anti inflammatories. She seems a little brighter this evening.

The disease is only spread by mosquitos spreading infected blood, so although the other sheep can't catch it from Leia, the likelihood of a mosquito biting her then biting one of the others is much higher if they're all together.

The general advice is to keep the sick animal inside, but as I only have one barn that means leaving all the healthy sheep outside with the mosquitos. In the end I've brought the pig arc back into use and put the Leia in there allowing the other sheep to continue to use the barn. It's very sad to see an animal so visibly ill and distressed, plus separating her from the rest of the flock puts her under additional stresses. Just hope the others remain healthy.

Hunter Gatherer

After yesterdays rain today was clear and dry. I took advantage of the cool weather to dig some of the foundation pads for the new woodstore/garage. I'd almost finished when 'twang' I put my back out. Sudden intense searing pain (partially slipped disc?). After managing to limp to the house, performing a number of gentle stretchs, hangs and appplying lots of deep heat, I decided best thing was to try and keep it moving so it wouldn't seize up. Some gentle scything, a very long walk around the commune and it still hurts a lot...a hot bath is next.

On my walk, before, after and in-between visiting Paul and Dédé I collected some mushrooms (horn of plenty, hedgehog of the woods and chanterelle) - enough to make a 2 day risotto, and some apples, damsons and blackberries - enough for a huge crumble. At this time of year it's easy to be a hunter gatherer and eat well.

Radio 2

We're getting the backwash from the torrential rain hitting the UK at the moment. This morning I managed to get out to do some hedge maintenance, but all afternoon it has rained heavily, so I stayed inside. The sheep have loved the poor weather, sitting out in the rain all day.
I put radio 2 on and when Dermot O'Leary asked "What is the strangest thing you've found in a new house?", I couldn't resist e-mailing him about the dynamite and detonators found at Pont de la Taule. What do you know it got read out on national Radio 2!

Blue Tongue

Una, Tara and Leia looking none the worst for their adventure

After months of waiting for the Blue Tongue vaccine and mortalities getting ever closer (the next village a few days ago) it finally arrived today. As it has to be administered by the vet for certification I had to take the sheep to St Girons.

In the morning I enlarged my Heath Robinson sheep transporter to take 3 sheep, then with some help from John, I loaded the them. I made two journeys to St G with three sheep each time to get them vaccinated. It's a hell of a job as each sheep has to be caught then carried into the back of the trailer (they are heavy now - perhaps 40 kg each). Each received two injections but unfortunately there's a third injection in three weeks time so I'll have to do the whole thing again.

In fact now I think of it - don't think I announced the new sheeps' names: Mini, Leia and India

Comprehension test

Having applied for a Permit de Chasse (hunting permit) to enable me to buy ammunition to kill my pigs and hunt on my own land (and hopefully much of the rest of the commune), today I had a day of theory tuition in Foix. To get a permit you have to take two exams one theory and one practical.

I was a bit apprehensive about whether I would be able to understand enough of what was being said, given that the tuition involved a lecturer speaking french to an all french audience (except me) on all aspects of hunting - species recognition and natural history, law, firearms, safety, etc. without any visual aids or hand-outs for about 4 hours. I guess it's a mark of the progress I have made that I could understand at least 90% of what was being said and at the same time make notes in French and English for future revision. I'm sure my grasp of the language would be faster if I lived in a town or city or worked in an office but given that I live in the middle of nowhere, I was pleased.

Drying Mushrooms

After collecting 4 basketfuls of 'horn of plenty' mushrooms and drying them I have finally filled my 1.5 litre jar. As mushrooms are mostly water, they shrink a lot. 'Horn of plenty' are nothing special normally, but dried they have taken on a whole new flavour and strength - the house is full of a mushroom aroma.

This morning the suzuki managed brilliantly towing 7 trailer loads of hay between the field and the barn on my new piste. It was a bit worrying in places because of the camber, but the cars' centre of gravity is resonably low. I still haven't found a tractor but the jimny is making a good substitute for the moment. I think I can get to one of the last remaining two haycocks with the car - but the barn is very nearly full, so will probably use the inaccessible one for autumn feed, carrying each days requirement on my back.

Ox tongue

Spent the morning clearing a route through the woods to one of the haystacks, then making sure the suzuki could get there and back...just need to try it with the trailer full of hay tomorrow.

Another decent haul of 'horn of plenty' mushrooms in the afternoon to join those already drying and I also found this 'beef steak' or 'Ox tongue' fungus. Went down well at the BBQ this evening.

Ham-tastic

Spent the morning moving the first two (and easiest two) haycocks to the barn for winter storage - six trailer loads in all. Another three much larger ones still to move, but they will require some piste making to access them with the car, or a lot of manual carrying.

This afternoon I unwrapped the ham, gave it a clean and hung it in the house for its' last 3-4 weeks of drying. Looks yummy.

Mont Valier (4)

Sophie and Sandrine spent the night at the Estagnous hut under Mont Valier last night and I agreed to meet them on the summit at 12.00 today to guide them down the route via the Port d'Aula. I was up at the crack of dawn and left the Col de Pause at 7.30 in light drizzle and low cloud. the weather soon improved and after reaching the Port d'Aula in 1 hr 20, I made good progress and was on the Col Faustins in 3hr 40 (even I was surprised). I waited there for Sophie and Sandrine who were making their way up from the hut.

Looking down the Couloir Faustins

Valier's immense South East face and the 'Trou Noir'

A leisurely descent via the summits of Petit Valier and the Col de Tindareille made for a great day.

Sheep relaxing on some rocks in a very 'sculptural fashion'

Col d'Agnes

The fog cleared quicker than I had expected this morning, so that by the time I had finished scything fields 1 and 2, it was a beautiful day with not a cloud in the sky. Alas it was too late for a mountain walk, so I thought I'd get the road bike out again.

I was quickly changed (superman would have been jealous) and on my way. After dropping down to Castet d'Aleu and the main road, I cycled to Oust then climbed the Valley Garbet (via Ercé and Aulus) before tackling the Col d'Agnes (a category 1 climb with 826m height gain in about 10km) which is regularly included in the Tour de France. It was hot and airless and the first third has no shade, but I kept going and soon I left the wooded valley behind and the mountain views opened up. Some shade and a cool breeze made the going easier and I was soon at the col (well nearly 1hr 25mins).

Near the top of the col during the famous Ariegoise Cycle Race.
In fact I only saw one other cyclist goint the same way as me
- he overtook me just 10m from the col - git!

A fast descent to the Etang de Lers and lunch in the café was followed by an even faster descent to Massat. The gradient eases after Massat and by the time I'd got back to Castet d'Aleu my legs were beginning to go to sleep. The 400m climb back to Quélébu (between 1 in 6 and 1 in 7 for the entire first two kilometers) soon had the blood flowing in my legs again. About 4hr 40 for the 70km circuit with 1565m of height gain in all.

Provence

Claviers

Have been in Provence (Claviers) for a few days visiting Stella and Howard. Good to relax, swim in the pool and catch up with old friends. At the local market in Bargemon I found some delicious smoked Pork filet and a donkey sausage (the donkey meat is deliciously lean). The weather was much better there than here so I managed to catch some rays too. It's a long way to go - 6 1/2 hours drive normally - but the journey back was longer because I missed a turn and ended up in Avignon then I got done for speeding...bummer!

Alain my neighbour (who lives in Provence for most of the year) sent me some great photos of the barn, which he took a few weeks ago when he was here.

A walk in the woods this afternoon has produced two ceps, some hedgehog of the woods, some chanterelle and masses of horn of plenty (which I'll dry). Tonight its a 100% home-produced meal - potatoes, carrots, mushrooms and sausages.

Mountain misadventures back on-line

My mountaineering website is now revised and on-line. The address has changed so use the link on the right if you're interested or click here http://www.inglis-sharp.co.uk/ I hope to add some new misadventures in teh coming weeks.

Souvenirs de la Résistance

Whilst clearing out the house at Pont de la Taule at the weekend, behind a stone slab in the old bread, oven I found these: 350 detonators, 60 sticks of dynamite, 25 bullets (.303) and a couple of full clips for a pistol. As the old owner died 20 years ago no doubt he was in the Résistance - perhaps it's been there since then? Certainly from the condition of it all, I'd say so. The gendarmes thought it more likely that it was for felling very large trees...I prefer my story.

Fresh Snow

As happened last August, we have fresh snow on the mountains. It fell Thursday night above 2000m and everything was surprisingly white, but alas I wasn't able to take a photo then. The photo above was taken this morning and most of it has gone now.

Orange.co.uk - Sitebuilder

My three other websites which are hosted by orange.co.uk mysteriously vanished last week. It turns out that orange have decided to sub-contract out their website building and hosting to some third party (MAGIX AG) - and guess what, the new system is 'flash driven' anf therefore not compatible with the old one. Although they claim to have given their customers a warning by e-mail early in july, I never received it (I even checked to make sure it wasn't amongst the huge amount of trash mail orange inundate you with). Incredibly, with a flick of a switch they deleted everyones websites....f***ing unbelievable. Wow! Orange really know how to look after their customers. Seems there are many more people who are equally angry with orange for their erased sites....orange's responses amount to "sorry, but we don't care, we've signed a contract with MAGIX so screw our customers".

If you're ever thinking of having a website, or an ISP or a mobile...you know who NOT to touch with a barge pole.

Pic Rouges de Bassies, Pic Rouge de Belcaire

A griffon vulture on the crest below Pic Rouge de Belcaire

Climbed up Pic Rouges de Bassies (2676m) today with Ian. Starting from Coumebiere we were on the summit in about 2hrs 40min, but it was hot and airless and felt hard work. Last climbed the peak 3 years ago when it was in deep cloud and I saw virtually nothing all day.

The last part of the ascension past Pic Caumale (R) to Pic Rouge de Bassies (centre R) and Pic Rouge de Belcaire (centre L)

After soaking up some rays and looking at future climbing projects, we decided to scramble across the ridge to Pic Rouge de Belcaire -great fun.

The continuation of the ridge to point 2554 was abruptly halted by 25m vertical drop requiring an abseil or at least a rope for protection.

A gulley provided an escape but it was clear that the rest of the ridge is a 'roped' project. Some close encounters with vultures provided some photo opportunities, before we made our way to the Etang des Lavants de l'Escale where some swimming gave us restbite from the heat.

A speedy descent to the car, then cold beer in Ercé and ice cream in Oust before home.

Now we are six

Three more sheep!

A rant about farming here

The cows have been in the woods below Quélébu for the last week. ‘Farming’ up here basically involves enclosing a few tens of hectares or so of other peoples land (mostly absent landlords) with an electric fence and then letting a herd of hundred cows loose in it for two - three weeks a year. The land is otherwise unfenced and mostly woodland, bracken and brambles (once pasture, but neglected and unmaintained for 50 years). The cows trample the vegetation and forage for grass, they destroy the old stone terraces, communal paths and walls – but do nothing to halt the advance of trees, bracken and brambles.

Most landowners here still seem to hold onto the principle of never selling land. I guess this principle is born out of a time when they maintained, used and lived off it, when it was productive agricultural land that their fathers and forefathers had worked hard to create and improve, their only asset. This no longer applies - the land has little agricultural value anymore, few if any of the current landowners are involved in farming or maintain the land and many don’t even live in the Ariege any more (though most retain a second home here to use in the August summer holiday).

One can’t blame the few farmers left here for the way they use the land. Unable to buy it, why should they invest time and money to improve it to pasture once again? There are plenty of people here willing, desperate even, to start farming properly. Every week the local paper is full of adds from local ‘young farmers’ trying to find a few acres of land to buy to ‘start-up’ in business. A search also hampered by France's ludicrous inheritance laws which have left the land split into millions of tiny 'parcelles' - mostly fractions of a acre in size - all under different ownership. Accumulating a couple of acres of 'parcelles' in reasonable proximity to each other is nigh on impossible.

I guess farming will only recommence here when the ‘old guard’ pass on and their children who return to the Ariege for holidays and leisure, will see the land for what it has become – valueless – and take a less compassionate view with regard to selling it to the people who are willing to invest in it and use it - to the good of the local economy and countryside.

Pic Seron (3)

Nina called last night as she fancied stretching her legs - so today another trip to Gerac, this time to climb Pic Seron. Perfect weather and another fine day out in the mountains.

Pointe de la Hillette to Pointe de Rabassère

Pointe de Rabassère and the NW ridge to its right. The horizontal section on the extreme right is seldom (if ever) climbed and required the rope, the rest was easy scrambling/walking even though it looks much harder and is part of the VN.

Finally managed to go back and climb the NW ridge of Pointe de Rabassère (2568m) all the way from Pointe de la Hillette. Penny was free, so we set off early and were at the start of the ridge in about an hour. We roped up and moving together, traversed the ridge. It was good fun 'pioneering' a ridge which has been seldom or perhaps never climbed - no guidebook description to follow, no trace of previous passage.

The start

There were some huge unstable blocks, at least three 'through routes' and some interesting route finding. In fact the ridge was nowhere particularly difficult, but often exposed.

The mother of all 'threads'

Flake anyone?

The end of the roped scrambling

The grade probably PD with sections of II+ (probably avoidable), no abseils required. Protection was there when you needed it and the granite was incredibly rough but quite lichenous.

From the summit we descended the east ridge then bagged Pic Turguilla (2527m) before returning via the Cabane Turguilla to Gerac.

Turguilla

David on 'Les Choucas'

Climbing today at Turguilla and the rain held off until 4.00pm. In fact the weather was warm and sunny for most of the day as we were above the clouds. We visited 3 sectors - "C'est quand qu'on arrive?" where we climbed Maries Celle (5b), then we moved to "C'est encore loin" climbing Les choucas (5b), L'ami molette (6a), then two excellent routes C'est pour toi (5c) and Spitonneur (6a) and finally "C'est pas vrai!" climbing Le rhum des coins (5b) which was not worthwhile.

Yaron on 'Spitonneur'

David managed to walk in and climb 3 of the routes with his repaired heels and Yaron experienced his first hanging belay!

Hanging belay on 'Les Rhum des Coins'

Away from civilisation at 1900m the site has a "belle ambiance des montagnes" and lovely rough granite.

Anisclo

Whilst I scythed, picked and froze my french beans, harvested potatoes and washed clothes, Yaron and David went to Spain to the Anisclo canyon. It's truly spectacular but I've been many times already. The Spanish side of the mountains were very hot, whilst here in France the clouds blew-in in the afternoon, and tonight it's drizzly. Hopefully a short walk in the mountains tomorrow.

Climbing at Auzat

Yesterday Yaron and David headed off to Foix and the underground river at Labouiche (whilst I caught up with shopping and farmwork). They spotted this great bit of art on the way.

Today we headed to Auzat for a spot of climbing on the granite (mostly 5c), with Penny and Will - it was hot on the rock.

On the way back over the Port de Lers the parapentes were out.

David's heels were still really painful but tonight we've put some compeed on so hopefully they'll be up to one last walk or climb before their holiday is over.

Mont Valier (3)

A religious experience?

Rupert was keen to get a big mountain day in before he left tomorrow, so with the weather forecast to improve in the afternoon, I decided to take him, Yaron and David up Mont Valier from the Col de Pause via Port d'Aula and Petit Valier. Although there's only 1850m of height gain it's a long and tiring route with a short section of exposed scrambling before Petit Valier -but to my mind the best way up the mountain (without climbing).

We set off from the Col de Pause at 8.00 in thick damp cloud with poor visibility. We quickly reached the Port d'Aula (1hr 20) where conditions improved dramatically. It was one of those days when France was deep in cloud and Spain bathed in bright sunshine. Occassionally the cloud would spill over the frontier ridge and strange miniature rainbows would appear before us.

We saw the usual wildlife - marmots, isards, vultures, and a Pyrenean frog. After the scramble along the ridge in cold swirling clouds, the sky cleared a little and Valier appeared above the 'cotton wool' sea.

It took us 6hrs to reach the summit (including lunch stops) but the views with the many layers and types of clouds were fantastic and worth the effort.

David on the summit

With visibility still poor below 2500m in France and Yaron and David looking tired (too long sat behind desks), I decided not to return via the Couloir de Peyre Blanc so we returned the same way.

Col de Peyre Blanc

The return leg was at a much slower pace and we finally got back to the car after 11hrs.

Back at the house David removed his boots to reveal some horrific open blisters - amazingly he'd felt no discomfort until the last hour of the descent.

Ouch!

Visitors and mushrooms

Yaron, David, Rupert and Charlie arrived yesterday evening. Although it was the hottest day of the year so far, last night we had an electrical storm and today it has remained cool and overcast. So a walk nearby and the chance to collect some mushrooms.



Tomorrow, a bigger walk in the mountains hopefully.

The Moon setting behind Mont Valier