Dusty

Another full day at Pont de la Taule - burning all the rotten old wood and barn contents mostly. Barn first floor is now more or less clear, apart from a mound of dusty and very old hay. Found a very nice leather apron - not sure if it is for butchering, sheep-shearing or something more kinky! I've taken it and hope to put it to all three uses.

Loaded up the trailer with all the none combustibles then remembered the tip isn't open on Mondays! Drinks with the old mayor and various other assorted locals at Chez Rogalles before home.

My 'Permis de Chasser' arrived today, but now I need to validate it. You can do it on-line ... anywhere in France apart from in the Ariege! Another trip to Foix. Still no sign of the tractor.

Progress

A productive day at Pont de la Taule. Barn emptied and swept of cobwebs (we're talking hammer house of horror cobwebs here) ready for the start of septic tank works tomorrow (hopefully) and the first door frame in place.

Remington Model Seven

After much thought I decided on the Tikka T3 laminated stainless in 7mm-08. The tikka is a nice gun, if a bit heavy and bit long in the length of pull department. Anyhow the stunning good looks of grey laminated stock and SS barrel swung it. I went to order one in St Girons, but guess what...there weren't any with the french distributor and a manufacturing problem at the Finnish Tikka/Sako factory means no more laminated stocks for 4 months at least. Although more or less the same gun, the regular Tikka T3 didn't appeal - such was my disappointment.

There was this lovely Steyr lightweight in the shop staring me in the face - beautiful gun - but it was too expensive for me. Looked at few others rifles but there was nothing I liked...was about to leave empty handed when an old (late 60's) stalker came in (he had a lot of VERY expensive guns and scopes from what he was saying). Anyhow after telling him about my dilemma, he recommended the Remington Model Seven, which was on my initial list but I'd forgotten about it. He actually had a soft spot for the model with the Mannlicher full length stock (not my taste) but the Model Seven ticked all my boxes except that the trigger is none adjustable (actually it is adjustable but Remington void your warranty if you adjust it). After a quick phone call the shop (L'Affut) confirmed they could get hold of a regular Remington Model Seven in 7mm-08 in less than a week (unfortunately the very nice 25th anniversary edition is only available in the US). So anyhow that's what I've ordered - good price too. Cheaper than the Tikka by quite a bit so I can splash out on a Leupold VX11 2-7 x 33 scope and decent mounts. The compact size of the Seven should be good in the woods here, suit my stature and at just 6 1/2 pounds, is light enough for long days in the mountains.

I'll see what the trigger is like when it arrives - most articles say the Remington factory set them at as much as 5 1/2 lbs! So might adjust it to around 3lb if it feels too stiff (most other manufacturers standard for a hunting rifle). Loads of articles on the web about how to do it.

I hope delivery is quicker than my tractor, which I'm still waiting for.

Spent most of today continuing with the 'mining' through the wall at Pont de la Taule.

Muck Spreading

A day of tidying up the vegetable patch, digging it over and covering it with dung from the barn. Just the leeks and carrots are still in the ground - the latter I'm digging up as I need them, the leeks will stay in as long as possible i.e. until it snows.

Autumn colours on one of the big beech trees between fields 1 and 2.

More rifle research and the bureaucracy of firearm importing is making me look again at the Tikka T3 laminated stainless. Can probably order one in St Girons. Unbelievably (given the tiny size of the UK rifle market compared to France) they are about 3/4 the french price in the UK.

Which Rifle?

Remington 700 mountain LSS

Browning A-bolt stainless hunter

Having passed my hunting exams, the question of which rifle to purchase comes to the for. I've been researching for a quite a while but am still undecided. Biggest problem is rifle availability in Europe. Winchester and Browning are both owned by the FN Group in Belgium but the range of rifles offered in Europe is a tiny fraction of that offered in the US. As for Remington I don't know what the availability is.

I'm decided on 7mm-08 calibre, a bolt action rifle with wooden stock (not a fan of synthetics despite the practicality). I like the Browning A-bolt stainless hunter (but is it available here in France?), the Remington model 7 anniversary edition with its' 22" barrel and also the Remington 700 mountain LSS (but I've heard nasty things about the Remington standard trigger which is non-adjustable). Sako's and Tikka seem a bit heavy and big for me ( I'm 5' 7") and most the european manufactured guns I find very 'fussy'. Take Verney Carron for example...very popular in France but to my eye truly ugly. Steyr and Blaser are a bit of an unknown quantity.

Not sure about Ruger M77 either and whilst I hear good things about the 'new' Winchester model 70 I think the new trigger system is only available in the US and the european offerings are all with rear blade and front sight and only in WSM/WSSM calibres.

Thinking about importing...any feedback/advice welcome!

Sheep and Tigers

Moved the sheep to Pauls' field today, a task that took most of the day. All the electric fencing in field 2 had to be dismantled (it can stay down now as the hedges have grown up and are pretty much stock proof) then re-erected in Pauls field, some scything needed to be done under the new fence location, then moving salt lick, electric fence charger, water, etc - not to mention the sheep of course. More fencing was required to marshall them down the 500m or so of track leading from the barn to the field.

A lot of to'ing and fro'ing and carrying with sack trucks and wheel barrows. It's one of the many tasks I hope will be made easier with a small tractor. I've been looking for one for about 18 months and finally settled on a secondhand Antonio Carraro Tigre 2700. 10 years old but only 1000 hrs or so on the clock. It's coming from Italy where secondhand mountain tractors like this seem to be about half the price they are here in France and the UK. So even with transport costs it was still much cheaper than a local purchase.

Dealing with the Italian company selling the tractor was complex (as I don't speak Italian) but thanks to 'babelfish' on-line translator and a local Italian lady who helped with the bank transfer - all has gone smoothly (if not quickly).

The tractor is now in Perpignan awaiting final delivery to me by a french company. This is where the problems start. In my experience the french have not heard of 'customer service'. Evidently the tractor has been in Perpignan for a few days but the company only rang me yesterday to say they were delivering it that afternoon (no warning) and by the way it's coming on an articulated transporter (which won't get through the village) and we expect you to be ready with a crane or unloading platform to lift the tractor off the back of the lorry as our vehicle has no unloading ramps! When I told them I could not take delivery as I would be in Foix taking an exam and in any case I didn't have a crane, they were most annoyed. After some ranting they gave me the dreaded "We'll call you back". In France this means probably next week, unlike in the UK where it means probably in 30 minutes. No call today, their phone number is irretrievable, and they didn't give me the company name - so I must wait.

Hunting Permit

Passed my 'chasse practique' exam today, so I can now purchase ammunition. I can also hunt within 150m of my house, but will need to join the local hunting club to be able to hunt right across the commune.

Hoof trim

Today all the sheep had their hooves trimmed. The first three sheep (now two) had theirs trimmed back in June, but the second three (by the looks of it) have never had theirs trimmed. It all turned into something of a marathon. The sheep-sofa came in handy, but it was still back-ache inducing work. What I need is a rising table! I found a woodworking surform very useful for finishing off after the initial trim with the hoof trimmers. It's amazing how quickly their hooves have grown.
Despite vigourous handwashing, I have smelt rather 'sheepy' today! Thankfully, a shower and change of clothes seems to have sorted the problem.

Pont de la Taule

Difficult to see what's going on in these photo's but basically I've broken through the wall at Pont de la Taule and have started installing a door frame. Work is difficult as the marble blocks are enormous and as none of the walling is coursed it's very difficult to match opening heights on either side of the wall. Everything is held up with acro-props and I was glad to reach a stage at which having rebuilt part of the wall above one of the lintols, I had an excuse to clean up and leave!

Back at Quélébu by 3.00pm, I converted my little first floor fixed window which I installed earlier in the year, into an opening window.

A tree once stood here

An ash tree to be precise. It grew up through the electricity and telephone wires and through the beautiful and massive lime tree which dominates my house. It was starting to compete with it, so it had to go. I had to climb it and take it down branch by branch as it was enclosed by utilities cables on three sides and my workshop on the fourth (who said a tree has four sides?). All is now safely logged for another winter.

While the ladder was out I cleaned the chimneys and cut the grass on the workshop roof.

The sheep are back from the woods (field 4) and now in field 2. Paul dropped in for l'apero and reminded me that I can put the sheep in his fields nearby, which I'll probably do later next week.

Manger...my arse!

Today I set about constructing a hay manger for feeding the sheep over winter. Stupidly, rather than design my own, I decided to use a plan out of a book - mistake number one. Apparently perfectly dimensioned for sheep, definitely perfectly dimensioned to make swinging a hammer or driving a nail impossible. I also decided to re-use/salvage some of the crappy timber from the old wood shed - mistake number two. The passage of time was marked by screamed expletives, bent nails and tantrums...and look at it...it's not like I've created a thing of beauty. Something about it reminds me of an old pub piano...probably the weight. I bet the bloody thing won't work. The sheep will probably bump their heads and not be able to reach the hay.

Tomorrow something different - anything!

Doorway

Spent most of today working on knocking another doorway through a near 3 foot thick wall at Pont de la Taule. This one will link the main house to the storeroom which will become the bathroom. The red line shows the approx position of the door. The big block at the bottom is solid bedrock (marble). Hence the reason I've been putting off this job for some time, but in fact it hasn't proved too difficult to break through. Forgot the camera, progress photo's soon.

...and relax.

After yesterdays' walk, today I pottered in the kitchen - mincing the lamb offcuts and turning them into sausages, then boiling the bones with some carrots, onions, celery and bay leaves to make some concentrated stock for the freezer. A stroll in the woods to gather a few mushrooms, then a cuppa at John and Sandrine's.
Tomorrow, I need to trim the sheep's hooves then I might put them down in field 4 for a few days.

Mont Rouch (3)

Another trip up my favourite Couserans peak Mont Rouch (2868m) today with Ian. Weather was beautiful with not a cloud in the sky. Snow from last week still lingered on much of the route.

The summit views were impressive with the crystal clear atmosphere.

The leaves are just beginning to turn here, but the light in the birch woods was fantastic - like a Klimt painting.
This evening the lamb was butchered and is now in the freezer, just some scraps to make into mince tomorrow.

Loss and gain

This morning it was with a sense of dread that I descended to the barn - expecting to find Jeanie dead. But no, there she was in the field with the other sheep. She was sat on the ground and even nibbling a few blades of grass. I thought she might just pull through. She was still fine at noon when I left for lunch with Ian, Nina, Marc and Sara. Alas when I got back at 4.00 there were only 5 sheep in the field and in the barn there she was dead.

After a moments silence and wishing here 'bon voyage' to sheepy heaven, I got to work saving the carcass. Fortunately blue tongue doesn't render the carcass inedible. It was the first time I've done a sheep so it took a bit longer than I had expected, but tonight I have two sides of lamb hanging in the kitchen and liver for tea.

Tomorrow, a day in the mountains and in the evening I will butcher the lamb and get it in the freezer. There was a frost last night and tonight it is clear - I'd like to hang the meat outside but I think there are too many predators. Still without a fire I think the house will be cool enough for the meat to set.

Jeanie

Despite all the antibiotics and anti-inflammatory injections Jeanie has slowly deteriorated and this evening she seems very weak and ill. I doubt she'll make it to morning but there is nothing else to be done. It's heartbreaking to see her in such a pathetic state. Someone in the village told me a shepherd friend of theirs has lost 40 of his flock of 70 to the disease, so I guess I have got off lightly if I only lose one.

Though many locals are bemoaning the 'cep' shortage this year, there are many other mushrooms to eat. Tonight some more gypsy mushrooms and cauliflower fungus (actually the very similar sparassis brevipes) with my lamb, and home produced vegetables and mint jelly.

A Touch of Autumn

Chasse practique

Today after a rushed morning's shopping, I went to Foix for an afternoon course in preparation for the 'chasse practique exam'. I thought this would be the easy bit, having used shotguns and airrifles for quite a few years...but no. The french have very specific ways of handling firearms which differ very slightly from the ways I have learnt. Undoubtedly the french ways are very safe, if a bit awkward sometimes (I think deliberately so to prevent safe techniques degenerating over time into potentially unsafe ones). The problem is I must now unlearn many years habits if I want to pass the exam. In my first trial run of the exam I failed before I had even fired a shot because I rested my trigger finger erect against the side of the trigger guard. Strictly 'interdit'. Also when breaking a shotgun one has to rotate the gun through 90 degrees (away from you) and push the stock away from the barrels. When reloading one must put the stock under your arm and hold the barrels with your left hand over the top, not underneath.

A final part of the test involves a simulated 'chasse en battue'. Where hunters with rifles stand in a line and game is driven past them. Using a bolt action rifle is a new experience for me. More difficult, throughout the test I have to give a commentary of my actions in french - which involves some new vocabulary.

Two weeks of practice coming up!

Woodshed complete!

After 4 days of solo effort the woodshed is rebuilt. In contrast to the old woodshed, this one should keep all my firewood dry and I won't have to move the car everytime the wind blows for fear that it will colapse.

Before

After...Much neater than the old woodstack covered in rusting sheets of corrugated iron weighed down with old tyres. The water from the roof will be collected and piped to the barn for feeding the animals.

Boeuf and roofs

Yesterday after a spot of finishing off on the garage I headed for the Beouf in Massat. A huge spit roasted bull for all the people of the Canton (district). Justin and Emily phoned to say they weren't going and Penny and Andy didn't show, but I bumped into a few people I knew and spent most the afternoon with Austin (who butchered one of my pigs for John and Sandrine) and some of his friends (who knew me through my blog!). Forgot my camera for the second year running so no photos.

In the evening injections for Jeanie then l'apero with Claude and Susan.

Today a trip to the sawmill for a few extra pieces of wood and the fixings for the roof sheets on the woodshed. Fixing these has proved to be a pain in the arse and this evening I'm only a little over halfway through....so my day in the mountains tomorrow is postponed as Wednesday I have to go to Foix and Thursday rain is forecast. Hopefully all done tomorrow and photos of the fruits of my labour.

Wood, sun and sheep

Two long hot days spent rebuilding the woodshed which is nearly finished now (photos on Monday). Just the roof sheets to put on on Monday. Tomorrow is the "boeuf" in Massat, a huge roast steer for all the occupants of the Canton.

This evening Jeanie is showing the first signs of blue tongue. An out of hours trip to the vet for drugs and I've dosed her up with anti-biotics and anti-inflammatories. Fingers crossed she'll be OK.

Sheep - Vet Magnets

Today was the day of my theory exam for the Permit de Chasse (hunting permit). The first exam I've taken in a very long time and certainly the first in a foreign language. However I passed with 100% correct answers! The practical exam follows in three weeks time.

When I got back and checked on the sheep, Una (who snapped off one of her horns as lamb) had ripped off another of her horns completely leaving just the raw horn core. I have no idea how she managed it or where it is. This has bled a lot down one side of her face. It seems to have stopped now. It's too late to call the vet, but in any case tomorrow I have to take all the sheep to the vet for their final FCO (blue tongue) vaccinations - two trailer loads of three sheep again - an all day affair. Even then it will be 60 days before they are fully protected. The vets here are too busy trying to vaccinate hundreds of thousands of sheep and cattle against FCO to make a house call to me with 6 sheep.

Meantime, this evening despite it being fairly cold today, there are clouds of midges everywhere (the culprits for spreading the disease). I've shut the sheep in the barn this evening so they are out of the worst of it. But it really is in the laps of the gods if any more of my sheep get infected or not.

Gypsies in the Woods

Despite the many mushroom collectors in the woods this weekend, these Gypsy Mushrooms seem to have been ignored. I think they're not that common here as this is the first year I've seen them, but to my palate they are about the most delicious mushroom you can find, with a slightly cinnamon taste and not as overpowering as ceps. Apples and blackberries completed the evening harvest today.

Yesterday Justin and I got all the rafters on his new barn roof - a very productive day in the sun.

No mountains

Was going to go into the mountains today but overslept...doh! Weather was very hot and sunny so busied myself with sorting out all the foundation levels (built a set of legs for the ranging pole which now stands up by itself). After quite a bit of trigonometry and measuring, I marked out all the column base locations on the foundations. The hammer drill needed collecting from Pont de la Taule, then I bolted all the column bases to the foundations.

Moved the sheep back into field 3, before Dédé, Minsou and Louise came over for a chat and some eggs. "Toad in the hole" for tea.

Tomorrow will probably give Justin and Emily a hand again.

Woodshed and Mushrooms

Woodshed no more, just my new concrete post bases.

After fitting the chainsaw with a new needle bearing and sprocket I finished tidying up the remains of the old woodshed, logging the old rotten beams and posts. I have built a homemade dumpy level out of a clinometer and a camera tripod and was hoping to take the levels on the foundations, but there was no-one around to hold the ranging pole.

Some mushroom collecting - chanterelles, horn of plenty, hedgehog of the woods and amethyst deceivers was followed by some sheep shearing (well trimming). It's strange, some the sheep just love having their fleece cut, they go into a sort of chance with constant tail wagging. Mini, however doesn't like it and it was she who I was trimming. She's worked out she can get under the electric fence by taking the wire on her horns then letting in slip onto the big pad of wool on the back of her neck. She 's the only one with wool there, or at least she was until I trimmed it off. Hopefully she'll now get an electric shock like all the others when she tries to get out of the field.

Bonfires and Evolution

After the next mass extinction, eventually man will evolve again. Obviously nipples on men is a mistake and hopefully won't re-occur...could we have more flesh on our shins next time too please? Mine get smacked all the time when I'm working and it hurts.

Spent the day burning all the crappy timber - its still burning now. Once the woodshed had been emptied it fell over by itself. So a total rebuild is now obligatory. Although it was unstable, like everything here at quélébu it was built strongly. Taking it apart has taken all day. More nails than wood, lots of chainlink and chicken wire, even the rusted corrugated roof sheets were held on with 5 inch nails (lots of them). Last two foundations pads are now in. A long workday, 12 hours.

Tomorrow a level survey of the foundation levels so that I can prepare the cutting list for the timber frame.

Jam v Marmalade

Up early to remove the formwork from the latest foundation pads, then into St G to order the wood for the new frame for the woodshed, to do some food shopping and collect some stuff from the builders merchant for Justin. Then over to Justin and Emily's to lend a hand with the barn again before rain stopped play. When I got home, the sun came out (briefly) so I finished emptying the woodshed, there's a lot of crappy, rotten, pine planking which came out of the house stacked there - tomorrow may be a day of many bonfires!

In the supermarket I bought a jar of bitter marmalade (or so I thought) some evil bastard had put a jar of apricot jam in amongst the marmalade and I picked it. I like apricot jam but not on my toast for breakfast - who'd do such a thing?

I'm currently listening to Radio 2, Bob Harris Country. I'm eclectic in my musical tastes but man I HATE country music, sorry but it sucks big time.

Woodshed

A beautiful sunny clear day yesterday revealing snow on the mountains. Spent all day at Justin and Emily's helping them with carpentry on the barn they are building.

Today I spent the day moving a years worth of firewood out of the woodshed so that I could get access to cast some concrete pads on which to put new timber columns (replacing the existing rotten ones). Cast five pads bringing the total to eleven - two more to do.

My planning application to rebuild/enlarge the woodshed was refused on the basis that rebuilding the existing woodshed exactly the same as it is currently, would be out of keeping with the existing buildings? Very strange.

Anyhow, I will now have to repair the existing woodshed instead - which amounts to the same thing.

Leia is back with the flock and seems to be happier, apart from being lame (a symptom of blue tongue) she's back to normal.

Can't go too long without mixing concrete

Put six of the thirteeen foundation pads for the new garage/woodstore in today (ran out of ballast after six). Snow on the mountains and a great play of sun and clouds in the afternoon.

Leia update

Leia seems much better today. Still obviously ill with some ulcers around her nose and her mouth, but much brighter and with all the swelling now receeded. Current advice on isolation is 60 days - but this appears to be based on a single research paper which managed to retrieve virus from an infected animals tissue 54 days after infection (Takamatsu), no-one else has managed to retrieve virus more than 7 days after infection. So given the cold weather (snow above 2100m last night) and Leia's stress at being removed from the flock I might consider repatriating her after 7 days. Will take her to the vets early next week for a blood test to confirm the virus strain.

Update

The explosives were finally taken away today from Pont de la Taule and hopefully I should soon have a revised quote for installing a sceptic tank. Meantime I've started knocking doorway number two through one of the half metre thick walls. Although, getting through was not too difficult, the lower couple of feet is a solid outcrop of marble and the rest is composed of enormous blocks, so it's very difficult to get a plumb door jamb without de-stabilising the whole wall. May have to call in some help. More trips to the dump - amazing how even an 'empty' house can contain so much junk.

Leia is a bit brighter today, but might take her to the vet tomorrow for an obligatory blood test and another anti-inflammatory injection. Weather has turned and is cold and windy...no mosquitos wondering whether to put Leia back with the other sheep for a few days as she is quite stressed away from the herd and spends all day with her nose pressed to the fence hoarsely trying to bleat to her half-sisters, who respond.

Blue tongue (FCO)

Yesterday, Leia was off her food, so I've been keeping an eye on her - this morning it was clear she'd contracted blue tongue...very swollen face, trembling (fever) and blue lips/nose. Although all the sheep were vaccinated on the 2nd September, it doesn't begin to offer much protection until the third injection (3 weeks after the first two) and even then full protection takes some weeks to accrue. So just bad luck I guess. I separated her from the other sheep and after a trip to the vet she's on antibiotics and anti inflammatories. She seems a little brighter this evening.

The disease is only spread by mosquitos spreading infected blood, so although the other sheep can't catch it from Leia, the likelihood of a mosquito biting her then biting one of the others is much higher if they're all together.

The general advice is to keep the sick animal inside, but as I only have one barn that means leaving all the healthy sheep outside with the mosquitos. In the end I've brought the pig arc back into use and put the Leia in there allowing the other sheep to continue to use the barn. It's very sad to see an animal so visibly ill and distressed, plus separating her from the rest of the flock puts her under additional stresses. Just hope the others remain healthy.

Hunter Gatherer

After yesterdays rain today was clear and dry. I took advantage of the cool weather to dig some of the foundation pads for the new woodstore/garage. I'd almost finished when 'twang' I put my back out. Sudden intense searing pain (partially slipped disc?). After managing to limp to the house, performing a number of gentle stretchs, hangs and appplying lots of deep heat, I decided best thing was to try and keep it moving so it wouldn't seize up. Some gentle scything, a very long walk around the commune and it still hurts a lot...a hot bath is next.

On my walk, before, after and in-between visiting Paul and Dédé I collected some mushrooms (horn of plenty, hedgehog of the woods and chanterelle) - enough to make a 2 day risotto, and some apples, damsons and blackberries - enough for a huge crumble. At this time of year it's easy to be a hunter gatherer and eat well.

Radio 2

We're getting the backwash from the torrential rain hitting the UK at the moment. This morning I managed to get out to do some hedge maintenance, but all afternoon it has rained heavily, so I stayed inside. The sheep have loved the poor weather, sitting out in the rain all day.
I put radio 2 on and when Dermot O'Leary asked "What is the strangest thing you've found in a new house?", I couldn't resist e-mailing him about the dynamite and detonators found at Pont de la Taule. What do you know it got read out on national Radio 2!

Blue Tongue

Una, Tara and Leia looking none the worst for their adventure

After months of waiting for the Blue Tongue vaccine and mortalities getting ever closer (the next village a few days ago) it finally arrived today. As it has to be administered by the vet for certification I had to take the sheep to St Girons.

In the morning I enlarged my Heath Robinson sheep transporter to take 3 sheep, then with some help from John, I loaded the them. I made two journeys to St G with three sheep each time to get them vaccinated. It's a hell of a job as each sheep has to be caught then carried into the back of the trailer (they are heavy now - perhaps 40 kg each). Each received two injections but unfortunately there's a third injection in three weeks time so I'll have to do the whole thing again.

In fact now I think of it - don't think I announced the new sheeps' names: Mini, Leia and India

Comprehension test

Having applied for a Permit de Chasse (hunting permit) to enable me to buy ammunition to kill my pigs and hunt on my own land (and hopefully much of the rest of the commune), today I had a day of theory tuition in Foix. To get a permit you have to take two exams one theory and one practical.

I was a bit apprehensive about whether I would be able to understand enough of what was being said, given that the tuition involved a lecturer speaking french to an all french audience (except me) on all aspects of hunting - species recognition and natural history, law, firearms, safety, etc. without any visual aids or hand-outs for about 4 hours. I guess it's a mark of the progress I have made that I could understand at least 90% of what was being said and at the same time make notes in French and English for future revision. I'm sure my grasp of the language would be faster if I lived in a town or city or worked in an office but given that I live in the middle of nowhere, I was pleased.

Drying Mushrooms

After collecting 4 basketfuls of 'horn of plenty' mushrooms and drying them I have finally filled my 1.5 litre jar. As mushrooms are mostly water, they shrink a lot. 'Horn of plenty' are nothing special normally, but dried they have taken on a whole new flavour and strength - the house is full of a mushroom aroma.

This morning the suzuki managed brilliantly towing 7 trailer loads of hay between the field and the barn on my new piste. It was a bit worrying in places because of the camber, but the cars' centre of gravity is resonably low. I still haven't found a tractor but the jimny is making a good substitute for the moment. I think I can get to one of the last remaining two haycocks with the car - but the barn is very nearly full, so will probably use the inaccessible one for autumn feed, carrying each days requirement on my back.

Ox tongue

Spent the morning clearing a route through the woods to one of the haystacks, then making sure the suzuki could get there and back...just need to try it with the trailer full of hay tomorrow.

Another decent haul of 'horn of plenty' mushrooms in the afternoon to join those already drying and I also found this 'beef steak' or 'Ox tongue' fungus. Went down well at the BBQ this evening.

Ham-tastic

Spent the morning moving the first two (and easiest two) haycocks to the barn for winter storage - six trailer loads in all. Another three much larger ones still to move, but they will require some piste making to access them with the car, or a lot of manual carrying.

This afternoon I unwrapped the ham, gave it a clean and hung it in the house for its' last 3-4 weeks of drying. Looks yummy.

Mont Valier (4)

Sophie and Sandrine spent the night at the Estagnous hut under Mont Valier last night and I agreed to meet them on the summit at 12.00 today to guide them down the route via the Port d'Aula. I was up at the crack of dawn and left the Col de Pause at 7.30 in light drizzle and low cloud. the weather soon improved and after reaching the Port d'Aula in 1 hr 20, I made good progress and was on the Col Faustins in 3hr 40 (even I was surprised). I waited there for Sophie and Sandrine who were making their way up from the hut.

Looking down the Couloir Faustins

Valier's immense South East face and the 'Trou Noir'

A leisurely descent via the summits of Petit Valier and the Col de Tindareille made for a great day.

Sheep relaxing on some rocks in a very 'sculptural fashion'

Col d'Agnes

The fog cleared quicker than I had expected this morning, so that by the time I had finished scything fields 1 and 2, it was a beautiful day with not a cloud in the sky. Alas it was too late for a mountain walk, so I thought I'd get the road bike out again.

I was quickly changed (superman would have been jealous) and on my way. After dropping down to Castet d'Aleu and the main road, I cycled to Oust then climbed the Valley Garbet (via Ercé and Aulus) before tackling the Col d'Agnes (a category 1 climb with 826m height gain in about 10km) which is regularly included in the Tour de France. It was hot and airless and the first third has no shade, but I kept going and soon I left the wooded valley behind and the mountain views opened up. Some shade and a cool breeze made the going easier and I was soon at the col (well nearly 1hr 25mins).

Near the top of the col during the famous Ariegoise Cycle Race.
In fact I only saw one other cyclist goint the same way as me
- he overtook me just 10m from the col - git!

A fast descent to the Etang de Lers and lunch in the café was followed by an even faster descent to Massat. The gradient eases after Massat and by the time I'd got back to Castet d'Aleu my legs were beginning to go to sleep. The 400m climb back to Quélébu (between 1 in 6 and 1 in 7 for the entire first two kilometers) soon had the blood flowing in my legs again. About 4hr 40 for the 70km circuit with 1565m of height gain in all.

Provence

Claviers

Have been in Provence (Claviers) for a few days visiting Stella and Howard. Good to relax, swim in the pool and catch up with old friends. At the local market in Bargemon I found some delicious smoked Pork filet and a donkey sausage (the donkey meat is deliciously lean). The weather was much better there than here so I managed to catch some rays too. It's a long way to go - 6 1/2 hours drive normally - but the journey back was longer because I missed a turn and ended up in Avignon then I got done for speeding...bummer!

Alain my neighbour (who lives in Provence for most of the year) sent me some great photos of the barn, which he took a few weeks ago when he was here.

A walk in the woods this afternoon has produced two ceps, some hedgehog of the woods, some chanterelle and masses of horn of plenty (which I'll dry). Tonight its a 100% home-produced meal - potatoes, carrots, mushrooms and sausages.

Mountain misadventures back on-line

My mountaineering website is now revised and on-line. The address has changed so use the link on the right if you're interested or click here http://www.inglis-sharp.co.uk/ I hope to add some new misadventures in teh coming weeks.

Souvenirs de la Résistance

Whilst clearing out the house at Pont de la Taule at the weekend, behind a stone slab in the old bread, oven I found these: 350 detonators, 60 sticks of dynamite, 25 bullets (.303) and a couple of full clips for a pistol. As the old owner died 20 years ago no doubt he was in the Résistance - perhaps it's been there since then? Certainly from the condition of it all, I'd say so. The gendarmes thought it more likely that it was for felling very large trees...I prefer my story.

Fresh Snow

As happened last August, we have fresh snow on the mountains. It fell Thursday night above 2000m and everything was surprisingly white, but alas I wasn't able to take a photo then. The photo above was taken this morning and most of it has gone now.

Orange.co.uk - Sitebuilder

My three other websites which are hosted by orange.co.uk mysteriously vanished last week. It turns out that orange have decided to sub-contract out their website building and hosting to some third party (MAGIX AG) - and guess what, the new system is 'flash driven' anf therefore not compatible with the old one. Although they claim to have given their customers a warning by e-mail early in july, I never received it (I even checked to make sure it wasn't amongst the huge amount of trash mail orange inundate you with). Incredibly, with a flick of a switch they deleted everyones websites....f***ing unbelievable. Wow! Orange really know how to look after their customers. Seems there are many more people who are equally angry with orange for their erased sites....orange's responses amount to "sorry, but we don't care, we've signed a contract with MAGIX so screw our customers".

If you're ever thinking of having a website, or an ISP or a mobile...you know who NOT to touch with a barge pole.

Pic Rouges de Bassies, Pic Rouge de Belcaire

A griffon vulture on the crest below Pic Rouge de Belcaire

Climbed up Pic Rouges de Bassies (2676m) today with Ian. Starting from Coumebiere we were on the summit in about 2hrs 40min, but it was hot and airless and felt hard work. Last climbed the peak 3 years ago when it was in deep cloud and I saw virtually nothing all day.

The last part of the ascension past Pic Caumale (R) to Pic Rouge de Bassies (centre R) and Pic Rouge de Belcaire (centre L)

After soaking up some rays and looking at future climbing projects, we decided to scramble across the ridge to Pic Rouge de Belcaire -great fun.

The continuation of the ridge to point 2554 was abruptly halted by 25m vertical drop requiring an abseil or at least a rope for protection.

A gulley provided an escape but it was clear that the rest of the ridge is a 'roped' project. Some close encounters with vultures provided some photo opportunities, before we made our way to the Etang des Lavants de l'Escale where some swimming gave us restbite from the heat.

A speedy descent to the car, then cold beer in Ercé and ice cream in Oust before home.

Now we are six

Three more sheep!

A rant about farming here

The cows have been in the woods below Quélébu for the last week. ‘Farming’ up here basically involves enclosing a few tens of hectares or so of other peoples land (mostly absent landlords) with an electric fence and then letting a herd of hundred cows loose in it for two - three weeks a year. The land is otherwise unfenced and mostly woodland, bracken and brambles (once pasture, but neglected and unmaintained for 50 years). The cows trample the vegetation and forage for grass, they destroy the old stone terraces, communal paths and walls – but do nothing to halt the advance of trees, bracken and brambles.

Most landowners here still seem to hold onto the principle of never selling land. I guess this principle is born out of a time when they maintained, used and lived off it, when it was productive agricultural land that their fathers and forefathers had worked hard to create and improve, their only asset. This no longer applies - the land has little agricultural value anymore, few if any of the current landowners are involved in farming or maintain the land and many don’t even live in the Ariege any more (though most retain a second home here to use in the August summer holiday).

One can’t blame the few farmers left here for the way they use the land. Unable to buy it, why should they invest time and money to improve it to pasture once again? There are plenty of people here willing, desperate even, to start farming properly. Every week the local paper is full of adds from local ‘young farmers’ trying to find a few acres of land to buy to ‘start-up’ in business. A search also hampered by France's ludicrous inheritance laws which have left the land split into millions of tiny 'parcelles' - mostly fractions of a acre in size - all under different ownership. Accumulating a couple of acres of 'parcelles' in reasonable proximity to each other is nigh on impossible.

I guess farming will only recommence here when the ‘old guard’ pass on and their children who return to the Ariege for holidays and leisure, will see the land for what it has become – valueless – and take a less compassionate view with regard to selling it to the people who are willing to invest in it and use it - to the good of the local economy and countryside.

Pic Seron (3)

Nina called last night as she fancied stretching her legs - so today another trip to Gerac, this time to climb Pic Seron. Perfect weather and another fine day out in the mountains.