Up at the crack of dawn for the 2hr 30mins drive to the Biesla tunnel across the border to Spain. We had hoped to climb some of the frozen cascades just on the Spanish side, but they weren't in condition, so we retreated to the French side. In the mist we ascended the valley trying to find the highest (introductory) falls, but they were too short and topped with meringue cornices, so we descended again to "Dorada". Eventually the low cloud lifted and we could see what we were climbing. We launched into a route of 35m at 80/85 degrees. After about 10m of climbing I remembered how bold you have to be climb steep ice. It's been 6 years since I climbed grade 5 ice. David joined the fray and soon we had placed 5 screws and were nearly at the top. Some Spaniards were climbing next to us on the "Variante Directa" which reaches the top with an extra 5m of 90 degree ice. We swapped routes and had a grand day.
Nous nous sommes réveillés avant le soliel a levé et aprés 2hr 30 de la route, sommes arrivé à le tunnel Biesla vers Espagne. Nous avions éspèré de grimper sur les cascades de glace à le sortie du tunnel en Espagne mais elles n'etaient pas en conditiones, donc nous sommes revenu en France. Dans la brume nous sommes monté le vallon afin trouver les cascades plus haut. Malheuresment elles sont trop court avec une garniture des corniches comme meringue, donc nous sommes redescendu a "Dorada". Enfin la brume mont et nous avons pu voir les voies. Nous avons commencé avec unnnnne voie de 35m à 80/85 degrees. Après 10m de grimper Je me suis rappelé que on a besoin être audacieuse sur la glace! Il y a 6 ans depuis j'ai grimpé glace comme ça. David m'a joint dans l'attaque et bientôt nous avons réussi presque à finir la voie. Des espagnols ont grimpé à côté sur la voie "Variante Directa" qui finir avec 5m de glace vertical. Nous échangons nos voies et finissons une grande journée.
Below us we watched an avalanche crash down the opposite side of the valley and block the road back to France. Fortunately it was cleared before we departed.
En dessous nous avons regardé un avalanche parti qui traverse la route vers France.
4 commentaires :
I want to come over - how long do think that will be in condition? got any dates free? I'm gonna go home and sharpen my Rambos!
Warming up until the weekend, when it might turn a bit colder again. Ice was pretty thick, but could hear and sometimes see the water running far below. Lots of those ominous deep thudding cracks from the ice too. Good ski touring conditions though for sometime to come with the quantities of snow and spring conditions. Can always be 'free' for climbing/skiing.
give me a call if the climbing conditions look good towards a weekend - maybe a longish tour with some climbing? March is looking okay for me would be great to catch some spring touring.
Hi Lee
Great to see you still adventuring. Had some great touring conditions in Chamonix as well this season and put a page up on Breezys website for snow news too.
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