Col de la Core to Port de Salau via the Estanous

 

Isards on the Cuns d'Aula. Filmed in slow motion, so press the cog icon and select speed, x2, to see at actual speed.

Al and Breezy hatched a plan go up to the Estanous refuge one day then the following day to continue all the way to their place in Salau. I was game, so on Wednesday Susie dropped us at the Col de la Core. 

The weather was forecast to be extremely hot so we made an earlyish start leaving the col at 8.00. The path more or less contours the East side of the mountain ridge running North-South from the frontier to the Col until it reaches the Cabane Subra. Here the climbs starts, passing the wreckage of the Halifax bomber that crashed into Pic de Lampau in 1945.

Col de Craberous, top left

A short but steep haul reaches the Col de Craberous...and the first breath of wind on an already sweltering day.

On the descent we saw marmots and a fox amongst the boulders. 

On reaching the Etangs de Milouga we stopped for lunch and a cool off in the lake.

The onward route is the climb up to the Col de Pecouch over sun baked granite slabs and not an ounce of shade. My water soon ran out and the heat was energy sapping. We were relieved to reach the col and descend to the refuge for water and later a beer! 1550m of ascent and 15km.

At the col de Pecouch

A shower at the refuge, then a game of dice before dinner. Onion soup, veal and rice then chocolate cake. The clouds came for some great photos before sunset.

isards on the ridge

The refuge was not too full and our dormitory was not too hot or noisy, so a reasonable if intermittent night's sleep was obtained. 

Breakfast was at 6.30 and we were away by 7.00. Stephane the guardian had warned of a risk of storms in the afternoon and with much distance and many tops to cross, we decided not to visit the summit of Mont Valier but turn right at the Col Faustins to start the ridge back to Salau. 

We scrambled up Petit Valier, crossed the Col de Peyre Blanc, before more scrambling got us to the Col de la Pale de Clauère. 

Valier and Petit Valier behind us,heading for the Col de la Pale de Clauère

The onward ridge

We descended in Spain watching herds of isards on the cliffs. 

Tackling the ridge from here to the Port d'Aula had been discussed, but in the end given the already long day and the storm warning we tackled just the first part over Les Montagnols. It's a very narrow ridge but was a fun detour and probably didn't add too much time to the day.

On the narrow ridge of Les Montagnols

At the Col de Tindereille we left the ridge and continued on the Spanish side to the Port d'Aula (4hrs from the Estanous). 

Retrospective of he first part of the journey, Valier and Petit Valier the two peaks on the horizon in the centre, the Port d'Aula immediately below us. 

A Lammergier (bearded vulture or Gypaete Barbu), constant companions on our trip

The onward route was to follow the frontier over Tuc de Bignau, Tuc de Berbégué, Cap de Hoque Prégonne, Pic de Montagnol, crossing the Portenech Aurènere before Pic de Montaud, Pic de Portabère and finally Port de Salau. On the ridge it was hot but there was a slight breeze and below us a sea of cloud. 

Descending to the Portenech Aurènere

At Pic de Montaud we stopped for a late lunch. In the Salau valley the cloud was lapping the frontier ridge and it wasn't long before dropped into the mist. 

Pic de Montaud

After Pic de Portabère we left the ridge onto the french side before cutting across to reach the ruined buildings on the Port de Salau. 

Another bearded vulture dives into the mist.

A long descent in poor visibility finally lead to Al and Breezy's place were Susie was waiting for us.

Another long day with 1300m ascent, 2500m of descent and 20km.